DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4

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DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4

DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4

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~~£60.00~~

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£52.00 (You save £8.00)

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DMM

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( 4 product reviews )

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Product Description

Torque nuts are Dmm's solution to large passive protection. As the name suggests, these cunningly sized and shaped nuts work well in standard placements but also have and efficient camming system.

Although Torque Nuts can be used as a wide wedge, their biggest advantage is based on the camming principle of the original hexes. Keeping the all important pivot points but with a modern redesign, we've developed a piece of passive protection kit that is immensely strong yet very light. Rated at 14kN this equates to holding approx a 1.4 tonne static load. Just four sizes cover a very large range and they are all anodised for recognition and corrosion protection.

Those of a certain age may recall the early hexes, a.k.a. seagull bashers, heralding your arrival at the crag as they swung around your legs like cow bells. But they worked and in the days before spring loaded cams they offered the only means of protecting certain cracks.

Skillful placement of Torque Nuts will still work in some places where cams simply aren't as effective. An important consideration is that cams point load the rock while Torque Nuts spread the load - the greater the area of the nut in contact with the rock the wider this load is spread. Bear this in mind if climbing on soft rock for example and to maximise the nut's holding power. Torque Nuts will also be the choice of protection for iced-up cracks over a spring loaded cam.

The Torque Nuts have a double Dyneema sling arrangement (patent pending) that allows you to easily minimise rope drag but without them bashing you in the knees when they are racked. A groove on the top of the nut protects the sling.

Specifications
Size 1 - 54g / 14kN / Green
Size 2 - 70g 14Kn / Red
Size 3 - 104g 14Kn / Gold
Size 4 - 146g / 14Kn / Blue

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Product Reviews

Really Great Set Of Hexes!

Posted by Jay on 10th Nov 2010

First of all I haven't tried any other hexes apart from the DMM Torque Nuts but I have to say that they are the best addition to my rack. They provide a variety of placements which I have found to be ideal on short Grit routes, to longer limestone routes, to multipitches in the mountains.

The four hexes provide a huge range of placements with each hex being able to be placed in a variety of ways. This is due to the tapered edges and shape, meaning the size of each hex varies with the orientation you place it in. More than just that, the hex can be placed in horizontal cracks where the use of a camming action is employed. By which the downwards force upon it secures it firmer in place.

Once placed it is possible to extend it by simply unclipping one part of the sling and pulling back, meaning that the hexes hang very close to the harness rather than by your knees. (This process is easily reversed once the gear is removed.)On a similar point the weight of the hexes on my harness is barely noticeable, (although the noise of them clattering together is!) and I have never felt that they have hindered my climbing while having them racked.

The only possible negative I have found (which isn't really a negative!) is that the hexes do have a slight learning curve to them. Where it takes practice to place the hexes in the different orientations and to achieve the camming effect. I expected this but just thought I would point it out and I find that often it can take a while to place the gear. However, once placed I find it to be one of the most solid and reliable pieces of gear possible.

Overall I am exceptionally pleased with the purchase, with them now being able to make a substantial number of placements. I would recommend them to anyone who is looking for a set of hexes and would in many ways recommend this set of hexes before a set of cams.
The best hexes on the market

Posted by Clay C on 9th Nov 2010

Having only 2 cams on my rack, I often find my set of Torque Nuts are invaluable. There is no better feeling than placing a bomber hex, and given the choice I'd place a good Torque Nut over a good cam every time - there's less to go wrong!

The extendable sling is a great idea, and when it works is really useful. I have however found that in some placements it is very tricky to pull the sling through because of the way it is seated against the rock. This is only a minor concern and there is usually no problem extending the sling.

DMM have advertised these as having an “efficient camming system” which enables these pieces of gear to be placed in horizontal cracks where a cam would usually be the only other gear available. I’ve only done this a handful of times, and didn’t fully trust the placements – they seemed insecure and I felt they may slide out if loaded. Having said this, I was glad to have the bit of gear in, and they were definitely better than having no gear, even if a cam would have been much better.

Overall, the DMM Torque Nuts are a great way of cutting weight off your rack. They have an extendable sling, weigh around half the weight of a comparable sized cam and cover a larger range per piece than other hexes. And best of all, you can get a full set of 4 Torque Nuts for the price of 1 - 2 cams!
Extendable sling is a good feature, a bit poor in design

Posted by Unknown on 9th Sep 2010

Sling extension is trickey, firstly the sling does not glide through the hex, the hole feels too small for the sling. Secondly if you try to pull the wrong end of the sling the taping gets stuck, but you get used to them and the extension is a really good feature.
Light and flexible...

Posted by Alan Turner on 2nd Jul 2010

I was looking for some hexes to replace my older kit and after much deliberation, chose these and I am very pleased I did. I needed light gear for the Alps as well as trad routes in the UK. The shape of these nuts makes them suitable for a bigger range of crack sizes so you don't need as many of them. One really useful feature, especially for weight saving in the Alps, is the double sling can be pulled through to make a single longer sling. Add a light weight carabiner and you have hex with built in extender, with very little weight to carry.