Solid Plastic Boots.

Posted by Tom Ripley on 24th Nov 2010

I’ve had the Omegas for two and halve years and in that time I’ve hammered them. They fit my feet well and I can comfortably wear them for extended periods of time. I’ve used them for Scottish winter climbing, continental ice climbing, and summer and autumn alpine climbing. I wear them with three pairs of socks, so they are not the most precise fit, but I’ve still managed to climb Scottish VI and WI 5 in them without issue.

For Scottish winter the boots are pretty good, being comfortable, warm and nimble to climb in. However they do have a big flaw, despite being plastic the boots are not waterproof and leak badly when water seeps through the tongue. I’ve used Sealskins waterproof socks to combat this to great effect, but at the end of the day, although my feet are dry, the boots are soaked. Next winter I’m planning on gluing Berghaus Yeti Gaiters onto the outer shells.

The boots are overkill and too warm for summer alpine climbing, though they are adequate. A lighter pair of leathers, or even something flexible like the Scarpa Charmoz is far more appropriate.

For autumn climbing the Alps, the boots come into their own, being far warmer than traditional leather boots. The ankle is also more supportive, making front pointing up miles of ice, on something like the Shroud or the Swiss Route slightly more pleasant. The removable inners are also a blessing, when camping or biving I’ll remove them and place them inside my sleeping bag. This means by morning I’ll have dry warm liners, whilst my partner is usually cursing their frozen leathers.

After two and half years how are they wearing?
If I’m honest, not that well. However considering they have been used a lot -on not the most forgiving terrains: moraine, scree and bog slogging – the sole is in remarkably good shape. Mixed climbing also hammers your boots and as a result the uppers are looking fairly trashed. They are scratched to hell and have a few minor crampon gouges. The boots use very lightweight inners, which split easily don’t last that long. Luckily Scarpa have always replaced these free of charge. My third set is now coming to the end of their life, but fortunately they have been redesigned and are now much thicker and harder wearing. I’ve also been through three set of laces and bizarrely Scarpa decided to use lightweight eyelets, one of which has snapped, but most cobblers can, cheaply, replace these for you.

Conclusion
If they fit your feet Scarpa Omegas are a superb pair of boots, suitable for Scottish winter and autumn, spring and winter alpine climbing. There have been some issues with durability of the inners, but these have now been resolved. After two and a half year the outers have stacks of life left in them, but haven’t worn that well. Considering how light these boots are a compromise needs to be made somewhere. Scarpa Omega are the perfect boot for the dedicated Scottish winter climber who occasionally climbs in the Alps away from the summer season, where a lighter pair of boots would be more appropriate.